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Re: Skin-on-Frame: Differences between SOF and fus

During the winter hibernation from boating activities, I have considered which kayak I would like (not need) to build next, and how to do it. It should be an SOF, for the ease of building and the low cost, considering the ply and other wood I have lying around. In the forest around my house I can get hazel, oak, juniper, birch and other woods for traditional construction, and the lumber yard has long boards of cheap and good knot-free Norway pine for the longitudinals. But should it be fuselage, which I am familiar with, or the more traditional steambent ribs?

. . .

for the skin. If beautifully made and varnished strip-built kayaks can be used and still be protected from everyday scratches and dings, why shouldn’t a fabric skin be taken care of the same way, and be much lighter than usually used (8-12 oz Dacron or nylon)? Like Platt Monfort did.

Peter Lord

Meh. For kayaks there are those differences in rigidity, but - for me - the main difference with non-traditional construction is speed and ease of building.
But, it sounds like you've got all the ingredients for an interesting traditional build, and it'd be something new for you, so . . . . .

BTW, most of my boats can be fastened using either lashing or "glue and screw" - builder's choice . . and both methods are detailed in the instruction guides. I've lashed a whole lot of boats, but lately have been using screw and glue a lot, as it's just faster.

As for using lighter scantlings and skins, one can certainly do that, and come up with a lighter boat which, if you are careful, will work just fine. Accidents do happen, though.
I have both built and used skin boats with lighter scantlings than I advocate, and there have been issues - though by and large they worked.