Greetings All,

I think I am about ready to start working on my first Skin On Frame. I think I have decided I want to build a Yost Sea Rover LC - non folder with wood stringers/gunwales/chines/keel. Any help with my questions would be greatly appreciated! :-)

Plywood availability:
My only choice for marine plywood nearby me is 3/4". If I were to use this for the cross sections
- Could I make the holes through the cross sections bigger to save some weight?
- Would getting the sheet cut down to (4) 2x4 pieces to ease transport really affect being able to get the most out of the wood for cross sections, coaming and other parts?

For the coaming - instructions call for (3) 1/2" thick pieces for the base and and (1) 1/4" piece for the lip
- Can I get away with (1) 3/4" for the base and (1) 3/4" piece for the lip? - would it be better to use (2) 3/4" pieces for the base - would this extra 3/4" affect lay back rolls?
- http://www.yostwerks.com/SBCoamingB.html

Framing:
I am having a hard time finding WRC planks with knots I can cut around - I would be lucky to find that in 12' lengths
- To make a 17' rover - I would need atleast 18' (preferably 19'+) long pieces for stringers/gunwales/chines/keel?
- 2 or more butt joints per stringer/gunwale/keel would be ok?
- I can skip the inwales & deckridge that goes all the way from cockpit to bow and cockpit to stern?
- http://www.yostwerks.com/NewSeaRiderWoodAlum2.html
- gunwales are 1 1/2" X 3/4" | chines, keel, and deckridge are 1" X 3/4"?
- http://www.yostwerks.com/SBStringersA.html

All the WRC planks I have found are rough - in 12' lengths 2 x 4 and 3/4 x 6
- Would it be ok with the 3/4" x 6 after I plane it smooth - maybe 5/8" or less after smoothed
- Pretty much anything I can cut out of a plank should be "vertical grain" (assuming no knots)?
- It doesn't matter if the orientation of the grain is ||| = or /// when installing?

Was kind of thinking about aluminum tubing for the keel, stringers, gunwales and chines - however it looks to be more of a pain to do bending, and have to do inwales and more deckridge stuff.
- It would be better for me to do wood for my first skin on frame?

Oil finish vs Epoxy
- Besides cost any major reason to not use epoxy for the entire frame?
- How much additional weight would finishing the kayak frame in epoxy vs oil?
- Would Epoxy crack vs flex with the frame in waves?

Tools:
I have a 18v/24v sander, drills, circular saws and jig saw. I am really really bad at cutting straight lines, or for the matter cutting any line cleanly.
- Would a bandsaw like this one be enough for stringers, cross sections, etc : http://www.amazon.com/SKIL-3386-02-2-5-Amp-9-Inch-Band/dp/B009VJ3NNW/
- Other recommendations?

Skinning:
There are alot of oyster beds and other underwater hazards in my area (that and eventually sand will get in the kayak)
- Has anyone had experience with using 40 oz/yd² coverene material for the hull?

I live in a soon (next month or two) to be very hot and humid area (South Florida)
- Any experience with using gor tex like fabric around the cockpit area on the deck?
- http://www.seattlefabrics.com/outerwear.html#Super Waterproof/Breathable-Tex 3 ply

Hatches:
I don't think I would paddle very far from shore with this kayak - however I would like bow and stern hatches so I can more easily put in/remove float bags...as well as take a repair kit and maybe my lunch ;-)
- This looks pretty doable for a first time builder?
- http://www.kudzucraft.com/articles/hatches/

Anything else I need to know, tips, suggestions?

Thank you all in advance!,

Bob