I have never had very good luck with rollers. I know others swear by them but for me, a cheap paint brush and squeegee work best. Something to remember is that your sealer coat should be quite thin. You don't want "extra" epoxy because it will make for a heavy boat AND as you have found out, sanding epoxy sucks... it's also dangerous to breath in that dust so I try to keep epoxy sanding down to the bare minimum (ALWAYS wear a mask when sanding). After I have sanded the wood hull I squeegee on a thin layer of regular system three, I have good control over the temp so outgassing isn't much of a problem PLUS the layer of epoxy I put on is VERY thin, a skim coat might be a better definition of the sealer coat. I don't sand this coat. When it dries I lay my 6oz. glass atop the hull and "paint" on warm (pre-heated NOT already starting to go off) system three clear coat with the cheap brush. It wet's out the cloth instantly, without alot of painting strokes which is important because you don't want to beat air into the epoxy/fiberglass matrix. After the boat is completely covered I'll let it sit until I can squeegee it without the cloth getting funky... I also knock down any bubbles that might form.... although most time there are none. The squeeging removes any excess resin you may have applied and ensures a tight cloth/wood bond. After this coat sets I apply more regular stystem three in thin even coats until the weave is filled and I'm happy with the finish. I like to apply the epoxy in such a way as to avoid sags. They are the pits to sand out and often, when sanding sags, you'll sand to the weave instead of removing the sag... murphy's law I suppose. Although I use System Three ( I'm test driving Raka right now though) I imagine any reputible companies epoxy is as good as the others... I strongly suggest using a very thin epoxy to wet out the glass though or the battle is a tough one ESPECIALLY for the inside of the boat. Good Luck. Doug K