I don't know Nick forms but I've built plenty of low back strippers.

I usually use three half width strips (sometimes two) to make the curve from the hull to the deck and accomodate the low back deck. these are 1/4 x 1/4 strips. On the back deck they will have an almost 45 degree bevel. I would totally forget cove and bead in that area.

Usually my shear strip is not above the curve on the back deck - I make sure this is just the last of the normal strips. In other words, your lowest strip with the hull upside down. Once I flip the boat over and start the deck, the shear strip is in on the hull.

I see you're using clamps. That's good. I use a lot of spring clamps and to get through that point, I can only do one strip on each side and I have to let the glue set. Small pieces of strip spring clamped between the strips keeps them flush especially where the transition from the front deck travel down to the back deck. Cut you bevels to favor the visible outside. When you finally remove the deck there will be some gaps that will need a little filling. Nobody (absoutley nobody) can pull that off in perfect alignment. But you can easily get a perfect outside fit.

On my forms, I screw some chunks of 1 x 1 stock that I can clamp to. Those are on the inside of the forms (facing bow) because you can get a little spring back.

Low volmue, low back kayaks are just much harder to strip for that reason. But as you get going you'll get through it fine.

I would work from the shear up for a while. Once the middle strips start to meet the ones comming up from the shear, you'll have to do a little bending and forcing. That's where it pays to cut out a rough cockpit opening so the strips on the upper deck can bend as a group more easly to me3et the ones comming up from the shear.

also you can cheat a bit and sand the ones that are making a tough bend a little thinner. Just reinforce that area with a lille extra glass from underneath later.

good luck - don't panic!