I don't think that's a bad idea at all!

It would work just the way you think it would provided the entire surface was convex. You may have a problem getting it to conform to the curves near the bow and stern. Other than that it is basicaly the same thing as vacuum bagging.

It may be better to use a perforated release film, you would get a much smoother surface finish which would require less sanding / filling to get it ready for varnish, lower cost also.

Doug K.

: i basically understand what youre saying, but what if you lay down several
: layers on the top half of a 20wide x17 foot long cylinder(hull analog) and
: wet it out completely. and then laid on top the nylon peel ply sheet say
: cut 40in wide by 18ft long so it over hung the cylinder and then hung wts
: all along the perimeter of the nylon so it compressed the lvg shzt out of
: the laminate. but because the nylon bridges the gaps betw the yarn
: threads, there/d still be resin there. would you get a good resin/glass
: ratio. would it be resin starved? how could it be resin starved?

: then some fill coats for oxidation protection and you have a super thin
: effective laminate??

: would it be similar to vaccum bagging except the 'bag'(the wted nylon) is
: porous for resin?

: but at the limit of vac bagging, the resin AND cloth are at the same pressure
: so one may get thinning there, but with this method, it seems as if only
: the cloth gets to be compressed and the resin could flow all it wanted in
: the interstices.

: probably stupid idea

: -mick

: -mick