> Hi Sue, I've experienced the same thing you have and am looking forward to
> the responses of some of the more experienced builders, but here's my two
> cents.

> I had three butt joints come out terribly and after calling Pygmy boats
> and asking for advice here I used a rotary sander to sand all the way down
> to the wood. If you do this, Ross Leidy pointed out that if there's any
> epoxy left on the wood, that section may be a slightly different color
> when you retape and epoxy. I sanded down to wood (being careful not to
> take off much wood) and the second time they looked good.

> Additionally, if the bubbles are on the surface, a little light sanding
> will get rid of them.

> Additionally, and someone correct me if I'm wrong
> please, I'm guessing that the upcoming layers of glass & epoxy will
> fill in any irregularities in the butt joints that exist now.

Only if you do a good job of sanding and you gently taper the edges ( or `feather' the edges) of where the epoxy meet the wood. If there is any lip or hard edge, additional coats of resin will just accentuate the problem.

You can use a thickened epoxy to fill in the low areas on each side of the butt joint, Spreading this mix over a distance of three inches from the joint, and then sand that into a long, gently tapered filler which can be covered with a wider piece of glass or resin/paint/varnish etc. as needed.

Unless you redo this completely you are going to have a spot here where the boards are just a bit thicker than elsewhere. You can get used to it. Since the boards do not align correctly there may be a difference in strength. I'd put another layer of 4 or 6 ounce glass fabric over this area for additional strength -- maybe a piece 4 to 6 inches wide.

If you want to redo these joints, cut through them along the line of the butt joint, and then sand off the glass tape and resin. The kerf from a saw blade would eat up about 1/8 th inch from the joint, shortening the pieces a tiny amount. Instead of using a saw, you can use a very sharp utility knife and a straightedge to cut through the glass, resin and wood. This will require MANY gentle passes with the knife over the same area. Don't be tempted to cut faster by applying more pressure. Forcing things practically guarantees that the knife will slip and cut you badly. Just keep drawing theat knife blade over the same spot until you get about halfway through, then flip the planks and got after it from the other side. Hopefully your cuts will meet perfectly in the middle of the seam between the boards. Using a knife instead of a saw means you won't significantly shorten the pieces. The kerf is almost non-existant.

Good luck with redoing the joints. Use plenty of pressure, applied evenly, to keep those parts aligned.

Paul G. Jacobson