> Please send specifics. What type of ply did you use? Also what was the
> glass used? Must have used either birch ply or luaan..

> Looking forward to seeing any pictures too. Is the length adjustable just
> like a strippers length is adjustable?? By scaling between the
> stations....

> Also, I guess you build it around some forms on a strongback and then
> remove the forms?

> Any details to this mode of construction are good. Also is time required
> similar to normal S&G outside of cutting forms and strongback building.

> How did you figure out how to cut the panels?

> Thanks, Pete

Pete,

I used 3 4x8 sheets of 1/8" mahogany plywood (3 very even plys with no detectable voids). For glass I used Raka's 3.25 oz. satin weave, 3 layers under the cockpit, 2 on the rest of the bottom of the hull, one layer on the sides and top and inside.

The kayak hull is built on the forms as described in George Putz's "Wood and Canvas Kayak Building. I used a keel stringer, chine stringers, sheer stingers, and stems all made from western red cedar (this is just as decribed in the book, but leaving out the stringers between the chines and keel). I then beveled the stringers. Next, I clamped rough cut plywood to the stringers and drew the panel shapes onto the plywood, removed the clamps cut out (just a bit large) the panels and glued the back in place holding them with clamps and staples. I planed the edges of the panels to be perfectly flush. I backed but joits with plywood on the inside. I glassed the hull in multiple sessions instead of all at once. I built deck beams to shape the deck similarly to a Pygmy Queen Charlotte (southwest greenland style). I put plywood bulkheads in at this time. I rough cut the deck panels and marked their shapes by outlining the deck beams and hull. I glassed the underside of the deck panels, then glued them down holding them with clamps and staples. After the glue dried, I planed them flush. I glassed the deck the way Pygmy does wrapping the glass onto the hull. I built a cockpit like a CLC West River out of 1/4" mahogany plywood. I'm using Nick's footbrace from his book, and will carve a minicel seat similar to the one Joe Greenley recently pictured. I will put rails for the deck rigging and put flush hatches in soon.

They kayak is based of of drawings that Norman Skene took off of a Southwest Greenland style Kayak. He widened it from 19" to 22" and gave it a little less deadrise to improve primary stability. I raised the bow 4" and the stern 1", because I think that is the way Skene had it set up, and Putz made a conversion error.

If I make another of these I will narrow the beam by 1-1/2" to 2", lower the sheer amidships, maybe narrow it between the chines to give it more flare, and maybe try to put more deadrise back in. Even without these modifications I am very pleased with this kayak. It is the best blend of turning and tracking that I have found.

If you have more specific questions, please feel free to ask.

Mike