Strip Built

Hi!

    I am in the process of closing the "football" on a Wee Lassie II canoe I am building. And I found myself in need of a longboard sanding device.  

    Since this is the first Strip-Built boat I have built I decided I did not want to spend a lot of $ on a longboard. (I am unsure if I wat to build more boats using this process.)  And I did not want to take the time to get the pieces and build one.

I've stripped just beyond the chine line on the Petrel Play and now want to mark it and cut it (as Nick does in his Episode 4 video "Stripping the Sides."  I have used the jig he shows to mark the outside of the sides according to the diagonal mark on the forms.  Given that I can't reach the diagonals on form 2 and 14, I'm not exactly sure where I should align the chine cut at the ends of the boat.  Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Steven

Boy I messed this up!  I was putting on the epoxy, using a MAS 2:1 epoxy.  After I was finished and I was marveling at the job, I noticed that there were a few spots that were missed.  I had very little epoxy left so when I poured it out there was not enough to align with a mark on the graduated plastic cups I was using, so I eyeballed the ratio.  Bottom line, the ratio was bad and now wherever I put this last bit of expoxy is soft 4 days later.  Areas where I did not hit with this mis-ratio’d batch is OK.

I have another question. What stains are you all using for your kayaks. I have been looking for a alcohol based stain ( Just like Nick) will a water based stain work as well?

Thanks

I am building a Petrel Play and fitting the sheer strip.  First, as you can see from the picture, the strip is not laying flush against the form (the last form before the stern inner stem).  I am using glue (not staples) and want to know if this looks right.  Do some of you bevel the forms to accomodate this?  Second, I am dry fitting the sheer strin using notched jigs  to hold them to the forms at the sheer line.  The strip bows out a little in between some of the forms.  Is it more important to make tight contact with each form or to get a fair curve by allowing the strip to slightly move

I have volunteered to complete the above kayak for the family of a man who died before he finished the construction. He stripped and glassed the outside of the hull, and stripped the deck, but that was a far as he got. I've made 7 cedar strip kayaks and a cedar strip canoe, so I'm okay with how to do this, but need some information first. The family did not find his plans. I need to know the locations for the coamings and the hatches, especially the coamings. Can anyone tell me how far from the bow or stern the rear of each coaming is?

Well, I finished the hull on a Spring Run build.  Now I am ready to start the deck.  I am going to be doing the sheer strips soon but, I can't seem to visualize how best to join the sheer strips at the tips of the stern and the bow??   It's the first few strips.  After that I can figure it out.

Any pics of the first few sheer strips of the deck?  Would like to see it at the tip of the bow and/or stern.

Thx,

Rob

Here's my question, I am using staples to hold my strips to the forms. I tried holt glue but it would not hold. Can I remove the staples and due a scrapping of the haul and then reinforce the haul with tape as Nick did on one of his builds  before flipping the forms or should I just strip the entire kayak before I start scrapping and sanding. I am still trying out different things to see what works.  Thanks in advance

Is there a detailed list of the tools / supplies that Nick uses in his videos?  Specifically, I cannot find the shears that he uses to cut strips ends during the build.

Does anybody apply a seal coat of epoxy on the inner stems prior to stripping?  I understand that the strips cover them on the outside, but on the inside I could see some voids developing when trying to apply the glass in the tight stern and bow sections.    Or is this overkill?

Thanks.  I hope everyone enjoys their weekend.

Steven