Strip Built

Boat built using narrow strips of wood, edge glued together and covered with fiberglass

Panthera 507

Submitted by JohnAbercrombie on Mon, 07/13/2020 - 23:42

Without picture uploads there's not much to say, but I thought I'd mention that I'm putting the finishing touches on a Bjorn Thomassen Panthera.

Hope to have it on the water in a couple of days.

I wanted a rudder boat for day paddles and possible short trips, so built a short (507cm) version of Panthera ('High Deck' variant, I like room for my feet...).

Perhaps some kayak sailing; I've planned the attachment points for the stays and mast step.

West Clear over MAS?

Submitted by daviddewitt on Fri, 07/10/2020 - 10:39

I am in the process of building a CNC Vember and used MAS LV epoxy for the layup and initial fill coat.  This is the second boat I have built using MAS recently.  While I love the ease of wet out, the bubbles are driving me crazy. On this particular boat I applied an initial seal coat and let the boat cure overnight.   The layup was performed at a constant 75 degrees (as measured by a digital thermometer sitting adjacent to the boat).   The first fill coat was applied by brush (using Nick’s suggested technique) according to the cotton swap test.

Foot Brace + Seat

Submitted by bug_hunter on Wed, 07/08/2020 - 22:23

Hey Guys,

Moving along with my Resolute build.  Working from KayakCraft (no kit).  Used redwood, poplar and walnut.  Done stripping, and getting ready to put the glass on the deck, and thinking ahead to the interior.  Given that this is my first kayak, I can use some help in fitting it out.  I am looking for a reasonably priced, and comfortable seat, and some foot braces.  Any suggestions and recommendations would be apprecaited.



Easy and Cheap Long Board for Sanding

Submitted by John VanBuren on Sun, 07/05/2020 - 10:27


    I am in the process of closing the "football" on a Wee Lassie II canoe I am building. And I found myself in need of a longboard sanding device.  

    Since this is the first Strip-Built boat I have built I decided I did not want to spend a lot of $ on a longboard. (I am unsure if I wat to build more boats using this process.)  And I did not want to take the time to get the pieces and build one.

Petrel Play Chine line

Submitted by SSpencer on Tue, 06/16/2020 - 19:43

I've stripped just beyond the chine line on the Petrel Play and now want to mark it and cut it (as Nick does in his Episode 4 video "Stripping the Sides."  I have used the jig he shows to mark the outside of the sides according to the diagonal mark on the forms.  Given that I can't reach the diagonals on form 2 and 14, I'm not exactly sure where I should align the chine cut at the ends of the boat.  Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Steven

Epoxy disaster!

Submitted by pifferl on Thu, 06/11/2020 - 09:01

Boy I messed this up!  I was putting on the epoxy, using a MAS 2:1 epoxy.  After I was finished and I was marveling at the job, I noticed that there were a few spots that were missed.  I had very little epoxy left so when I poured it out there was not enough to align with a mark on the graduated plastic cups I was using, so I eyeballed the ratio.  Bottom line, the ratio was bad and now wherever I put this last bit of expoxy is soft 4 days later.  Areas where I did not hit with this mis-ratio’d batch is OK.

Strip flush on the form?

Submitted by SSpencer on Tue, 06/02/2020 - 19:22

I am building a Petrel Play and fitting the sheer strip.  First, as you can see from the picture, the strip is not laying flush against the form (the last form before the stern inner stem).  I am using glue (not staples) and want to know if this looks right.  Do some of you bevel the forms to accomodate this?  Second, I am dry fitting the sheer strin using notched jigs  to hold them to the forms at the sheer line.  The strip bows out a little in between some of the forms.  Is it more important to make tight contact with each form or to get a fair curve by allowing the strip to slightly move

Reliance 20'8" double info

Submitted by John W. on Fri, 05/29/2020 - 05:18

I have volunteered to complete the above kayak for the family of a man who died before he finished the construction. He stripped and glassed the outside of the hull, and stripped the deck, but that was a far as he got. I've made 7 cedar strip kayaks and a cedar strip canoe, so I'm okay with how to do this, but need some information first. The family did not find his plans. I need to know the locations for the coamings and the hatches, especially the coamings. Can anyone tell me how far from the bow or stern the rear of each coaming is?

starting deck - questions

Submitted by NHrob on Thu, 05/28/2020 - 19:52

Well, I finished the hull on a Spring Run build.  Now I am ready to start the deck.  I am going to be doing the sheer strips soon but, I can't seem to visualize how best to join the sheer strips at the tips of the stern and the bow??   It's the first few strips.  After that I can figure it out.

Any pics of the first few sheer strips of the deck?  Would like to see it at the tip of the bow and/or stern.