I'm building a small stripper. I used 3/16" pawlonia strips for the hull, and WRC for the deck. As is my usual sequence, I stripped the hull, flipped it, stripped the deck, removed the deck, faired the hull interior, and fiberglassed the hull interior. I replaced forms 15, 12, 10 6, and 3 back in the hull at points I had pre-marked, before the epoxy was fully cured. I noticed that the forms fit well low in the hull, but there was a gap at the sheer, so I stretched tape across the hull to bring it in tight. One day later, the tapes strips were slack, and the forms fit snugly in the hull.
I'm building my current project (Njord by Bjorn Thomassen) with strips mostly from 'boards I'll never use' and leftovers around my garage shop.
I had a piece of basswood which I added to the stock for cutting into strips.
Those basswood strips came in handy when dealing with some areas where the strips had to twist a lot - the transition from the 'flat' rear deck to the area forward of the cockpit, near the sides of the deck.
I have modified my Avocet series of boats to fit my needs as I get older. The cockpits are longer for starters. I used to tune my boats for reasonably high speed now I am tuning them to 3.5 to 4.5 knots. To do that I have made my boats less full (I used to design very full boats keeping them full almost to the tips with gentle curves which gave me very good high speed efficiency) reducing bow width by about 2.5 inches at waterline and overall and stern width by about 1.2 inches. I made the boats about .5" wider at the widest point.
I recently purchased plans for a kayak. The plans call for building on an internal beam. I have built 8 kayaks on an external ("ladder") strongback, and exactly one on an internal beam, and I didn't like it. The form templates have a cutout marked for the beam, and no rocker measurements.
I think that I have a way to figure it out:
1. Find the form with the least distance between the beam cutout and the bottom edge, and mark it "0 rocker". Example: Form Nine, 16 mm=0 rocker
i was commenting on repairing a stern strip and thought i would share another repair job i did recently...not because the repair was of particular note...but the mode of accident was something that i thought folks could benefit from.
in a nutshell, when test fitting a boat on land, make sure you really have a soft surface underneath you. in this case, i was on land with my petrel and put the boat on the grass to sit in and check the cockpit fit....and 'snap!'.
How is the best way to repair the damaged "tip" (not sure of the proper term) of the stern? I did not build this kayak. I won it in a $10 raffle and have greatly enjoyed it ever since. I'm sick over this damage and want to fix it, but I do not want to make things worse.
Hello, my name is Randy, and I live in La Mesa, California. I got plans for the Micro Sport Bootlegger and hope to have her on the water - here at the Watson Lake in Prescott, Arizona - someday.
This is what I have now, a Pamlico tandem...
i am ready to begin ripping strips for my petrel play and am confused with the materials calculator provided on this site. Under the field where it had you enter the strip width I am not sure what value to use. Nick says the strip width is also the width of the board, so would I enter 1.5 given I am starting with 2x10 stock, or do I enter .75 given that will be the width that I will rip the strips down to?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dennis K -