I am at the stage in building my first Strip Built boat where I will be moving on to final sanding of the hull prior to the initial coat of epoxy. At which grit do you folks stop when sanding the bare Cedar Hull? I have just about finished the fairing of the hull with my ROS and 50 Grit.
i am trying to sort out if its a problem with me/my computer or the site. i have been trying to upload a picture of latest work but keep getting an error message when i try to upload
thanks for any help.
Without picture uploads there's not much to say, but I thought I'd mention that I'm putting the finishing touches on a Bjorn Thomassen Panthera.
Hope to have it on the water in a couple of days.
I wanted a rudder boat for day paddles and possible short trips, so built a short (507cm) version of Panthera ('High Deck' variant, I like room for my feet...).
Perhaps some kayak sailing; I've planned the attachment points for the stays and mast step.
I am in the process of building a CNC Vember and used MAS LV epoxy for the layup and initial fill coat. This is the second boat I have built using MAS recently. While I love the ease of wet out, the bubbles are driving me crazy. On this particular boat I applied an initial seal coat and let the boat cure overnight. The layup was performed at a constant 75 degrees (as measured by a digital thermometer sitting adjacent to the boat). The first fill coat was applied by brush (using Nick’s suggested technique) according to the cotton swap test.
Moving along with my Resolute build. Working from KayakCraft (no kit). Used redwood, poplar and walnut. Done stripping, and getting ready to put the glass on the deck, and thinking ahead to the interior. Given that this is my first kayak, I can use some help in fitting it out. I am looking for a reasonably priced, and comfortable seat, and some foot braces. Any suggestions and recommendations would be apprecaited.
I am in the process of closing the "football" on a Wee Lassie II canoe I am building. And I found myself in need of a longboard sanding device.
Since this is the first Strip-Built boat I have built I decided I did not want to spend a lot of $ on a longboard. (I am unsure if I wat to build more boats using this process.) And I did not want to take the time to get the pieces and build one.
I've stripped just beyond the chine line on the Petrel Play and now want to mark it and cut it (as Nick does in his Episode 4 video "Stripping the Sides." I have used the jig he shows to mark the outside of the sides according to the diagonal mark on the forms. Given that I can't reach the diagonals on form 2 and 14, I'm not exactly sure where I should align the chine cut at the ends of the boat. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Steven
Boy I messed this up! I was putting on the epoxy, using a MAS 2:1 epoxy. After I was finished and I was marveling at the job, I noticed that there were a few spots that were missed. I had very little epoxy left so when I poured it out there was not enough to align with a mark on the graduated plastic cups I was using, so I eyeballed the ratio. Bottom line, the ratio was bad and now wherever I put this last bit of expoxy is soft 4 days later. Areas where I did not hit with this mis-ratio’d batch is OK.
I have another question. What stains are you all using for your kayaks. I have been looking for a alcohol based stain ( Just like Nick) will a water based stain work as well?