I have modified my Avocet series of boats to fit my needs as I get older. The cockpits are longer for starters. I used to tune my boats for reasonably high speed now I am tuning them to 3.5 to 4.5 knots. To do that I have made my boats less full (I used to design very full boats keeping them full almost to the tips with gentle curves which gave me very good high speed efficiency) reducing bow width by about 2.5 inches at waterline and overall and stern width by about 1.2 inches. I made the boats about .5" wider at the widest point.
I recently purchased plans for a kayak. The plans call for building on an internal beam. I have built 8 kayaks on an external ("ladder") strongback, and exactly one on an internal beam, and I didn't like it. The form templates have a cutout marked for the beam, and no rocker measurements.
I think that I have a way to figure it out:
1. Find the form with the least distance between the beam cutout and the bottom edge, and mark it "0 rocker". Example: Form Nine, 16 mm=0 rocker
i was commenting on repairing a stern strip and thought i would share another repair job i did recently...not because the repair was of particular note...but the mode of accident was something that i thought folks could benefit from.
in a nutshell, when test fitting a boat on land, make sure you really have a soft surface underneath you. in this case, i was on land with my petrel and put the boat on the grass to sit in and check the cockpit fit....and 'snap!'.
How is the best way to repair the damaged "tip" (not sure of the proper term) of the stern? I did not build this kayak. I won it in a $10 raffle and have greatly enjoyed it ever since. I'm sick over this damage and want to fix it, but I do not want to make things worse.
Hello, my name is Randy, and I live in La Mesa, California. I got plans for the Micro Sport Bootlegger and hope to have her on the water - here at the Watson Lake in Prescott, Arizona - someday.
This is what I have now, a Pamlico tandem...
i am ready to begin ripping strips for my petrel play and am confused with the materials calculator provided on this site. Under the field where it had you enter the strip width I am not sure what value to use. Nick says the strip width is also the width of the board, so would I enter 1.5 given I am starting with 2x10 stock, or do I enter .75 given that will be the width that I will rip the strips down to?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dennis K -
im going to be doing some prototyping on a strip build paddle board, it is a bit of a unique design, not really surfboard based as the majority of what you see out there are. i am using basic dimensions of production SUP boards as a baseline, so i might get lucky and get the stability and maneuverability right the first time, but i really don't want to waste the materials on an "experiment", it is just for personal use too so there is no "investment" here for later return. in the future i may mess around with my own kayak, mostly because i enjoy building and adjusting as opposed to just b
i am new to paddling and boat building. currently building 2 sof canoes for the wife and i. i run across from time to time videos from "mess abouts" or other gatherings where people gather to show the boats they have built and paddle around ect with other boat builders. looking for events in the midwest region, although if there was a "can't miss" "super bowl" event i would consider traveling farther. any help or recommendations would be appreciated. again brand new, so im sure i am not using the right terms.
I’ve just started building a guillemot, using the info in Nick Schade’s book. I have a query on the end form lines as the keel depth on the end forms is deeper than it is on either of the forms against which it comes up against. What is the purpose of this edge or should I be planning it off so that it match the adjacent forms?
Any help/suggestions gratefully received