Kayak Building

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Am preparing for my first strip-build and want to know whether I should be using foam or plywood for the bulkheads. Should I be concerned about the hull compressing and damaging it due to a plywood bulkhead resisting this compression?

Stephen 

I am cutting the forms for a strip built Petrel Play. I've made 7 previous kayaks, always using an external strongback. The bow and stern PP forms have long extensions designed to run along an internal strongback. Is there any purpose for these extensions when using an external strongback?

John

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Total newbie; Planning on building a SOF using the "fuselage" frame method. An out of the box idea occurred to me.

Instead of 3/4 plywood frames, would a 1/8" ply, 1/2 solid foam insulation, 1/8 ply sandwich appropriately sealed on the edges provide the strength needed in addition to being lighter and providing more flotation?

I have not seen this anywhere so there is probably a good reason this would not work, but I am just experimenting. 

Thanks in advance. 

Hi,

Many years ago I built two Pigmy kayaks, Coho and Arctic Tern 14. My wife and I use them as very casual, recreational paddlers. I got the bug to build something with strips, but chickened out on a full boat, so I got a Hybrid Shearwater 16 kit from CLC. I see that they sell as an option on many, (but not all of their boats?) a retractable skeg. We are probably too inexpert paddlers to notice, but we don't seem to need them on our existing Pigmy boats. Is there anything about the design of the S&G Shearwater hull that requires or recommends adding the skeg?

I'm sure you guys have heard this question before, but I can't find the answer searching the forums:

Do people build wood strip kayaks using internal forms left in the kayak, with no strongback, just forms with large center openings? If so, is it more difficult than using an internal strongback?

Thanks,

Tom

I am finally getting around to glassing the hull on a Hybrid Shearwater. It calls for three layers of fabric, one full, one bottom and keel ends. Should these be done separately or all at once. I think separately would add weight, but all at once might be hard to wet out. Any advice, suggestions?

Thanks, John

Hello. I am buikding my first kayak (Frey by Bjorn Thomassen) and I am ready for glassing and epoxy on the hull. I have been planning to do a seal layer first, but due to temperature issues and the fact that glassing on sticky epoxy is harder (cloth not moving freely) I plan to let the seal layer harden and then sand it.
Is the difference in strength between chemical and mechanic bond large? 
 

I will be painting the kayak