Kayak Building

I have had 30+ wooden kayaks over the past 20 years, most have been low volume Greenland type boats, but a few have been high speed racers and a few general use day boats. I recently saw some postings that categorized the Pygmy Arctic Tern 14 as a boat that a paddler would quickly grow out of. In my experience this is a boat that a beginner can certainly handle, but after many boats and many years of paddling, I still find this boat fun in all kinds of weather and fast enough to stay with most groups. What do you think.

I can't find much info on this topic anywhere else online - anyone here used Corey's goop on poly skin? Only thing I can find online (and the only way I've used it in the past) is on nylon that he sells with the stuff. He does have a poly fabric available though. Can anyone weigh in on this?

The purpose for using that urethane on a polyester fabric would be for saving cost. His nylon fabric is a bit more expensive than 8 or 10 oz poly I can find in other stores.

I'm doing research for building my first strip kayak. I'm a skilled woodworker with an outfitted shop, in case you are wondering why plans vs a kit. I also bought the book "Kayak Craft" by Ted Moores. 

I see many companies on the web that offer plans. Can I get some feedback on what people here think are the better plan vendors? I know to look for plans with full-sized templates, so I won't have to enlarge the diagrams.

Thanks.

Hi All,

I just built 2 Pygmy kayaks and I wanted to get them insured in case stolen.  The price was reasonable, ~$200/yr for both, but I need to get them appraised.  The requirements are that it has to be a "related business" (boat builder, boat repair, etc.), and must be able to provide an appraisal on company letterhead, with contact information.

In my zeal to get the hulled glassed I completely forgot to apply the decorative kingfisher decals we had printed on rice paper.  Now I'm wondering if I can epoxy them on and put a few layers of epoxy over them for protection before sanding the hull prior to varnishing.  What do you think?

Alternatively, the print shop that printed the rice paper also printed the design on plastic with an adhesive backing.  So I could wait until after varnishing and stick those on, but I'm concerned they may peel off in the salt water.

In my zeal to get the hulled glassed I completely forgot to apply the decorative kingfisher decals we had printed on rice paper.  Now I'm wondering if I can epoxy them on and put a few layers of epoxy over them for protection before sanding the hull prior to varnishing.  What do you think?

Alternatively, the print shop that printed the rice paper also printed the design on plastic with an adhesive backing.  So I could wait until after varnishing and stick those on, but I'm concerned they may peel off in the salt water.

In my zeal to get the hulled glassed I completely forgot to apply the decorative kingfisher decals we had printed on rice paper.  Now I'm wondering if I can epoxy them on and put a few layers of epoxy over them for protection before sanding the hull prior to varnishing.  What do you think?

Alternatively, the print shop that printed the rice paper also printed the design on plastic with an adhesive backing.  So I could wait until after varnishing and stick those on, but I'm concerned they may peel off in the salt water.

I am ready for the seal coat on my Frej. After removing all the staples the shear strip stands proud of the forms by +/- 3/32". Forms are 1/2"mdf, am planning on trying hot glue to hold the shear in place for laminating. If anyone has any information other ideas that would help it would be greatly appreciated.

George

Without picture uploads there's not much to say, but I thought I'd mention that I'm putting the finishing touches on a Bjorn Thomassen Panthera.

Hope to have it on the water in a couple of days.

I wanted a rudder boat for day paddles and possible short trips, so built a short (507cm) version of Panthera ('High Deck' variant, I like room for my feet...).

Perhaps some kayak sailing; I've planned the attachment points for the stays and mast step.