I used beaded/coved strips and many many rolls of cheap masking tape (as mentioned prior). I was fairly patient and took some effort/time to make sure my joints were as snug as could be.

With lights strung inside the boat for applying the interior seam tapes, my lack of perfection became painfully obvious. Figure so long as I don't accidentally drop my running or flashlight while out for a night float, no one else will ever know.

Floats nicely, structurally sound and gets plenty of second (and third) looks. Just my take, but I wouldn't loose any sleep over a few small gaps.

Todd

: I'm nearly completed with my first strip hull. I decided to use rolling
: bevels rather than cove & bead and go stapleless. I have been striving
: for very tight joints between strips, as we all do, but there are places
: where it didn't work out the way I would have liked. My rolling bevels and
: dry fits seem to be very tight, although in the gluing and clamping
: process things start to get a little chaotic. I'm using Titebond II and
: mostly full length strips. By the time I get the glue applied along the
: strip and then get back to fit and clamp it in place, the glue has
: sometimes started to skin over and in some places I don't get the fit I
: want. Just cant squeeze it tight enough I would love to have more work
: time. Would a slow set epoxy work better? Maybe I should be leaving a
: little wedge space in the bevel for the glue?

: I'm sure everyone has run into this. Any good solutions? I know there are
: some masters out there.

: I read about all the different ways to clamp strips in place but some seem to
: require so much time. How can you afford it? For instance, Hot glue laces,
: this seems like it would take forever to do. I have been using spring
: clamps and plywood L brackets at the forms and 2 clamps with binders
: between each one to hold pressure against the previous strip. They seem to
: go on quick but not quick enough I guess.

: Thanks