Guess this is sort of what I was trying to say in my post above, except for the ropes. Just have 2 stands similar to those in Nick's book (or the same) and lay the rods across in the notches where you would put the webbing slings. Very sturdy. Do the deck first so you (and helper) can have one hand against the hull when flipping it over in case it wants to slip on the rod. Real simple, moveable, and nothing else to construct.

Grant
Squeedunk Kayaks

: Hi Bobby,

: Several folks have suggested the method I used. The 2 or 3 foot steel rods
: through the grab loop holes snugged up with duct tape for a tight fit to
: give you some rigidity for turning the boat over. You attach a rope to
: each end of the rods and hang it from the ceiling like a trapeze. If you
: run the ropes up away from the bow and stern at about 30 degree angles you
: create enough tension to limit the swinging. I just put a coat on the deck
: first and then (with some help) I turned the whole thing over to coat the
: hull. When the boat is upside down it is the least stable, so I used a
: prop running into the cockpit from underneath to hold the boat stationary
: while upside down. I rigged it from a 4 foot length of 2x4 clamped in a
: workmate stand. I know a guy who used one of those adjustable drywall
: rollers for the same purpose. Works great.

: Varnishing takes long enough as it is. Anything you can do to speed things
: along is a good idea.

: Mike

: -------------------------

: ------------