: Peter,
: Did you have any problems determining the correct shape for the hull and
: deck? The reason I ask is that there are no tables of offsets for
: bulkheads or temporary forms to make sure the hull takes on the designed
: shape. My Arctic Tern came with precut temporary forms, and many of the
: plans I've seen include offsets for forms. I'm sure it will come together
: smoothly, but there's certainly enough flexibility after stitching to
: create some variance from the ideal designed spec.

: I'll have to try to get in touch with Grant who designed the boat as well.
: Anyone got any suggestions?

: Thanks,
: Mark

Mark,

Like Peter said. hard-chined hulls come together fairly well. Just make sure that the beam is correct and that the deadrise (height of chines above the keel) is approximately 1 1/2". This should be at the rear of the cockpit area. This is best judged by making a bulkhead with that bottom shape and stitching it in. Make sure it just fits nicely and is not a tad too big so it pushes the panels out a bit. Then sight down the keel. If you have any unfair spots in the edges of your panels there may be a few minor humps and dips. It is amazing what a 1/32" + or - on the edge of a panel will do. Unstitch and shave off the offending spot for a hump or loosen the wires and shim the panels apart with a small sliver of wood for a low spot. The rest of the hull should be pretty much in shape. Just cut the bulkheads to fit wherever you want them.

If you need any other questions answered, my kayaks@squeedunk.com e-mail still doesn't seem to be working (need to fire my web host) use the ggoltz@aol.com.

Grant