> Also, for the future should I have just been painting it on like I did or
> should I have been squeeging off any excess so it would be just wet?

The idea is to put on a minimal amount. If your brush puts on a thick coat, you squeegee can remove the excess. This thin coat will soak into the wood, sealing pores in the wood, as it soaks in. You do not want the finished product to look like it has been varnished -- that is, no smooth finish, but noore like it has been stained, with all the finsih soaking into the wood.

Then, when you put on the glass ( with a squeegee) you have a uniformly thin layer of resin that is the thickness of the glass fabric (anything higher gets removed by the squeegee) This layer of resin can NOT soak in to the wood, as the wood pores are sealed, so it stays even and level, reducing the amount of fill coats. Since the resin is only as thick as the glass cloth, it is hoped that the capillary action of the cloth's fibers will hold that resin in place, preventing runs, while the resin sets up.

Without the precoat your wood sucks resin out of the cloth, leaving areas that need to be recoated. In those recoated areas th resin is pretty thick and heavy, and you risk getting runs.

Sand or scrape off the existing runs before you put on the glass cloth or you will go nuts trying to fair the boat later. There will be the tiniest of bumps, and in order to sand them smooth later, you'll have to go through some of the glass cloth -- which you won't want to do. When you scrape off the runs the wood underneath will stall be protected by ample amounts of resin that have saturated under the surface, below where your scraping or sanding are happening.

> I
> just had way to much to do with the rovings of 3 combings and it would
> start to thicken before I could squeegee it off.

Mix smaller batches of resin.

Hope this helps.

Paul G. Jacobson