You will certainly be better off with cured epoxy in the scre holes but try it for a while, keep an eye on the screw (check them after your first paddling adventures) you can replace it later. Who knows, it might cure properly check the mixing cup to see.

Everyone has there own "secret" but the goal is to get the varnish spread eavenly in a coat as thin as possible. (to avoid drips)Ive used foam rollers and foam brushes with good success. I always get a few drips...the last coat is the most critical.

I've heard of McCloskey for interior stuff like floors etc, pretty good at that. I've had problems with interior stuff especially polyurethane in the past. I stick with the highest quality MARINE SPAR VARNISH I can find and have had good luck with it. (as i should at 20 bucks a quart*@!#!)

> I am in the final stages of building my Osprey Double. I can almost feel
> the waves under me...but until then I have a couple of questions.

> I am installing the rudder and the directions call for saturating the
> screw holes with epoxy. I did that but the problem is I think I did not
> mix the epoxy correctly (tried to mix a very small batch) and am not sure
> it is going to harden. Is it crucial that the holes (bracket holes and
> rudder chock holes on deck) have hardened epoxy? If it doesn't harden
> should I remove the screws and put in a better batch of the stuff?

> Varnishing is next, does anyone want to venture a quess as to how much
> varnish the double will take (2-3 coats)? Do you put varnish on with a
> foam roller, foam brush or a regular brush? Has anyone heard of McCloskey
> brand varnish? The local paint guy says all the varnishes are about
> equal.He also says that interior varnish, although no UV protection, is
> harder than exterior varnish. I'm not sure this is what I have been
> hearing on this board. I take the advice here more seriously than the
> part-timer at the paint shop.

> I'm venturing into all new territory. Thanks for the help, again.

> Tom