> Sears has an inexpensive ($9.99 US) starter set of router bits with a part
> number of 9 29021. My current poject is modifying these inexpensive bits
> to cut bead and cove edges on my strips.

> The set includes a 3/8 bead/corner-round bit which I hope can be easily
> modified slightly with a grinder or a file to give you an inexpensive tool
> for making your bead and cove cuts.

> The shape given with most commercial bead and cove bit sets is a
> semicircle with a radius of 1/8 inch. This is the smallest radius that can
> be made which will cover the thickness of a 1/4 inch strip, and I think
> this is a bit too much. A larger radius cutter would cut shallower and
> still give the nice mating edges, which bond well, when the strips meet at
> slight angles.

> (There is no reason why the radius could not be 1/2 inch or more. As the
> radius increases the edges of the strip approach being straight, so
> radiuses over 2 inches are barely there. I think the practical upper limit
> is about an inch.)

> The 3/8 inch radius of the bead-cutting bit mentioned above is a shallower
> cut than the usual 1/4 inch radius, so less wood is removed (more strip =
> less sawdust) and when it is mated with a bead that has the same 3/8 inch
> radius you get a joint that should work just as well.

> This cutter makes only half of the bead. You will have to flip the strip
> over and run it through the router a second time to complete the bead.
> This is not difficult, or particularly time consuming.

> Since you have a single bit with the profiles for cutting bot the 3/8 inch
> radius ead and cove, you selet which cut you want by simply adjusting the
> height of the cutter and the location of the fences on your router table.
> Be careful not to get your fingers near the cutter when the router is on.
> When the cutter is aligned to cut the coves a part of the cutter is above
> the strip. It should be partially hidden by the fence, but still: be
> careful.

> I have a webpage with some pix and illustrations of how I plan to go with
> modifying this bit. This is a 2 wing cutter ( it has two cutting blades)
> and I have drawn over one of the cutter edges to show how it cna be
> modified. Of course you will need to file down both cutting edges.

> The 1/4 inch straight cutter that comes in htis set can be used if you
> want to use your router and router table to 'plane' your strips to an even
> thickness. It has a straight cutting edge that is 1 inch long, which
> should be sufficient for 3/4 inch wide strips.

> Set your fence away from the cutter to give you the strip thickness you
> need and feed the materials slowly to get a smooth cut.

> If you want to stick with the 1/4 inch radus commonly used on B&C strips
> you can cut the coves with the 1/4 inch veining bit. Be sure to get a
> solid set up wiht your fences and feather boards so the strip does not
> wander around, and feed it slowly. You may get better results by making
> two passes, cutting a shallow cove and taking off about half the wood on
> the first pass, then adjusting the cutter to complete the cut and making a
> second pass. You can make a fair bead with a hand plane, or, cut the bead
> with the 3/8 bead cutter (two passes) to get it close to the desired
> shape, and use sand paper or a hand plane on the bead to get a tighter
> fit.

> Use the veining bit to cut a slot 1/8 inch deep in a 6 to 12 inch long
> block of 2 x 4, and then line that with medium grit sand paper, which you
> can staple to the sides of the block. This will give you a shaped profile
> sanding block that can be used to touch-up the beads on strips that are
> trimmed or narrowed.

> Hope this helps someone. Obviously similar router bits can also be
> modified, and I suspect that you can find inexpensive ones for less than
> this set. Go for it!

> Paul G. Jacobson

Hi Paul

May I offer a word of Caution !! I don't presume to tell you how to do your thing, as I'm aware of your talents. But ! Bit alteration is not an easy thing to do, as there is a matter of Balance and vibration to consider. Those wings are turning at several thousand RPM and even a milligram of difference in weight between them will cause a MAJOR vibration problem.

Also, the wings must be exactly the same, whatever radius you use. Any variation in size or shape can also cause vibration, plus, will cause a wavy cut.

Finally, those cheap steele bits are made of a lesser grade of material. All could cause a multitude of problems, and this is where my caution comes in. I do not know the methods with which you will do your modifying, but, to all those out there reading your post, I would not say it is a project that just anyone should/could tackle. It could be a very dangerous/disasterous undertaking. Not a judgement on your work Paul, just a Caution to others who might attempt to do same. :)

As an added thought, the steele bits dull easily and will burn the wood. Also, with the 1/4" shank, I do not think the planing idea is a particularly good one. The longer the bit,( with steele bits ) the more vibration, and using the straight cutter as a plainer would be exposing too much cutter to the surface and cause a deflection towards the end. Probably leaving a beveled surface. ??? Check it out on a practice piece first. Steele bits are also very noisy.

Just a few thoughts for safety :)

Rehd