> Hi Shawn,

> OK You guy's talked me into it. I decided to quit work on the boat for a
> while. Figured I'd let you catch up! I took a couple pieces of white pine
> 3/4" x 1-1/2" and 48" long. I figured on using an 18"
> loom and set up the router table with a 1" round nose bit. I then cut
> a half round groove 20" long down the middle of each piece and glued
> them together. So best I can tell I've got about 1/4" of stock one
> way and 3/8" the other way. As long as I'm careful and cut the oval
> shap the right way I should end up with a very light hollow loom. I think
> I'll make the blade similar to the last paddle using cedar and pine accent
> strips. What do thing about steam bending the ash strip around the outside
> of the blade like I did last time? Should I go for the abrasion resistance
> or the ultralight? Last time I used two 1/8" layers wrapped around
> the blade.

Kent,

Go for the lightweight paddle. You can always make another if that one gets too banged up. I used only red cedar for my Greenland, next time I will hollow out the loom. A lightweight paddle makes for a more enjoyable trip. I need to build my sturdy storm paddle for my backup, and then I'll build my ultralight. I haven't broken mine yet and I learned to roll with it.

I also need to build a euro paddle for my wife. I plan on using red and yellow cedar. I'll do a birdsmouth shaft and the feather blade pattern from Nick's book. I'm just finishing a hollow shaft feather pattern that my brother wants. I built him a kayak, then he askes if he can have the paddle I'm building.

Mike