I've got 2 paddles--one with 7 (3/16-) full-length layers (fir/spruce/spruce/fir/spruce/spruce/fir) with all spruce layers "holey"--and one with 6 (3/16) layers (fir/spruce/redwood/redwood/spruce/fir) with all 4 inner layers "holey" and it's scarfed to 60* in the middle.. Holey = 1/2" dia holes @ 1 1/2" OC, staggered between laminations. Both have seen 2 seasons of fairly hard use and no breakage, not even cracking. The first one was glued up with yellow glue and not epoxy, and even though some of the laminations are de-laminating, still no breakage. Both are in the 3-lb. neighborhood and are definitely overbuilt.

I'd have to echo Tom's sentiments too. Who cares if the spare is somewhat heavy. You could go as light as possible with your primary paddle. Use it really hard during some day trips so you know you can trust it on a longer or more exposed trip. Then, if it works for 2 or 3 years (or a season or two of really heavy use) then make your spare as light.

Shawn

> Hi All, After reading all the response from Ross's posting on paddle
> making I'd like to conduct a poll. When paddlers have had there wood
> paddles break, where did they break? I am especially interested in
> Greenland style paddles. I am currently working on a new paddle and can't
> decide if I should cut my loom pieces back in half and hollow them or just
> make it a solid shaft. My last paddle made from cedar, redwood and pine,
> has a solid loom and weighes in at 2 lbs. 11 oz. If I do hollow it I'll
> use a router to do the job.