Hi mick;

This sounds like an excellent way to bevel those tougher, short radius form strips on any boat. I think I understand what you are saying, except I can't quite visualize past the "At the form" paragraph. Could you please explain that a little further? I'll be ready to begin stripping soon, been working on my station setup today. Station setup is time consuming!

Thanks for any further help, Best Regards, Spidey

> My boat is a short one and has major bevel changes along some strips. At
> first I used the block plane method w/ the strip held in a 1/4in wide x
> 1/4in deep dado in the edge of a long 2x4 held in a workmate (nick's
> method?). Worked really well for continuous bevels but it is a nightmare
> to get the changes esp if they are quick. So I over bevelled lots of
> strips at the first and now I'm sweating bricks that when I sand and fair
> that larger and larger gaps will appear between my strips when now they
> look acceptable.

> So I've modified my approach. I do not prebevel the strips, but bevel them
> in place on the form. I use the afore mentioned double bastard 10in file
> and file slightly over perpendicular to the form changing the bevel from
> form to form as each form changes. This is quite easy to judge, especially
> as the strip is right in place, and the form is right there a few inches
> away to make a good lineup and the flat file is long and slim and easy to
> judge as being normal to the surface.

This part >>>>>>>>>

> At the form I angle the file 45deg
> on one side and 45 deg on the other side so only a 1/8in x 1/8in 'nib' is
> left on the strip at each form. I just slice this off w/ an exacto knife
> laid flat on the bevel. I lay in the next strip with no bevel as the first
> one was overcut.