> The sit on top I used had a self bailing hole just aft of the foot braces
> that made the onboard water problem managable. Not sure you would need
> this if you had a good hull design... seems like too much drag to me.
> Probably a better way to manage it like draining it over the sides?

I can't think of a better way if you are sitting inside the hull. You are in the lowest portion of the boat. Maybe a foot bilge pump? Also, a bailing hole is only functional if the lowest part of the cockpit area is above the waterline.

> It seems like S&G is the way to go on this. ANyone want to design a boat
> for me to build?

Another idea - After looking at some commercially available surf-skis, I noticed they bear a resemblance in shape to a rowing shell - long, narrow, and a very low profile. Check out Current Designs surf-ski - 20' long, 18" wide, and looks no taller than 6", although that spec wasn't given. Perhaps get the plans for CLC's Oxford Shell, scale down to 90% - reduces length to about 20' and width to 20". In place of the rowing unit, install a cockpit - either wood or use minicell foam, and carve out the seat and footwell areas. Or get a North Bay or Patuxent and cut down the side panels. I agree stitch&glue is the way to go with the hull. But if you go with a wood cockpit area, I think strips would conform better to the desired shape - much more flexibility.

> These things are fun to paddle. I just need one that tracks well too.

All the commercial versions (surf-skis, not sit-on-tops) have either a skeg or rudder - so apparently the manufacturers feel they are needed. However, they appear to have round bottoms. Using a hard chine hull should fix most of the problem. And you can always add a skeg or rudder later, if necessary.