> Now the complex considerations. How do you inside seam the deck and hull.
> One way is to use Ed Valley's great approach in leaving an upturn of glass
> on one side. Another is a modification of Jay Babina's approach. I am
> seeing these as both blind seams.(but this is not great but might work).
> The second approach is to seal the edges and outside seam only. And I
> guess the third is to use a front and rear hatch to stick yer head in to
> inside seam the old way. That way you could even inside seam the
> cockpit(in the first two, you just glue the cockpit flange down and glass
> across.

Or the easiest solution - Use a shear clamp. It completely eliminates the need to tape the inside seam. As Nick mentions in his book, it does somewhat limit the shape of the deck, but you aren't worried about footroom.

> Problems I can see. future finishing or repairing of the inside. venting.
> Possible buckling of the whole yak at the centre(easily minimized at the
> deck) don't forget draining.

Inspecion ports or hatches could be installed to drain the boat and provide venting when not in use. Keeping the boat from buckling in the center is probably the most difficult to overcome. Perhaps a secondary floor - think of it as a really low, inverted deck - between the bulkheads. I see it as coming from the shear clamps, coming down to form hip braces for the paddler, and provide a surface for mounting the foot pegs, and forming a flat surface in the center on which to mount the seat. It will also need an inspection port to drain water out of the center section.

I think it's a possibility. Of course, I wouldn't be caught dead in an open top kayak. But if we call it a surfski...