> I usually use my radial arm saw -- but if I was going to use a table saw I
> would use the same techniques. Infeed and outfeed table, or other supports
> for the board and strip are very important. They can be very simple
> affairs and still be effective.

> I like a long fence. It keeps the board feeding straight. With a table saw
> I would clamp a 4 to 6 foot long board to the existing fence to provide a
> nice long fence. If you use a wide board you can clamp a feather board
> onto this to keep the board on the table.

> If you are using feather boards from the side to put your board against
> the fence, you will find that after each strip you cut you will need to
> readjust these. If you are cutting strips from 8 boards, cut a strip from
> each board before you readjust the feather boards. Then run the 8 boards
> through and cut another strip from each. Since you are narrowing each
> board by the same amount you should be able to do more cutting and less
> adjusting.

> I use a few small wedges, made from scraps of strips, to keep the strip
> from wiggling around. After I get about 3 feet of wood past the blade I
> drop the wedge into the kerf, where it sits for a while, keeping the gap
> open between the board and the strip. After I cut another few feet I drop
> another wedge in. No pressure on these. They just sit in there with their
> almost non-existent weight. Eventually the strip curves away and the first
> wedges fall out, but the later ones are in there doing the job.

> I flip the boards as I cut them. If I feed in the top of a board for one
> strip, I'll feed in the bottom for the next pass. I'm not sure why, but
> when I don't do this my last strips seem to have a slight taper. Flipping
> the boards eliminates this, and is simple to do.

> Using a narrow kerf RIP saw blade is a good thing. A planer blade is
> supposed to give smoother strips. A 7 or 7 1/4 inch blade can usualy be
> used on a table saw, and as the smaller diameter blades are made from
> thinner metal you'll not only pay less for a good quality blade, but have
> a smaller kerf and turn less lumber into sawdust.

> Hope this helps

> Paul G. Jacobson

Thanks for the idea Paul I guess with a Radial arm saw the blade direction will be pussing the work down a back which would stop any kick back as you would get from a table saw.