> Rehd

> Good advice for setting the plane blade, by why the reference to a block
> plane? Those "little block planes" are designed for cutting
> across the grain, not with it. Great for shaving end grain, but not so
> good for "grainwise" cutting. The blade angle is wrong.

> For cutting with the grain you need a standard plane. I'm thinking a
> Record/Stanley 3 1/2 or similar. The blade angle is set higher and in
> combination with the blade bevel and microbevel, you get a very high angle
> that can slice an almost invisibly thin shaving, leaving no tearout on all
> but the worst wood. Of course, no one uses "the worst wood" on a
> kayak, so that should not be a problem.

> Remember that when you sharpen the plane blade you must sharpen both
> sides. Both the bevel side and the "flat" back of the blade must
> be sharp and free from nicks. The bevel must be "sharp" and the
> back must be flat and shiny. Why "sharpen" both sides? You are
> creating a cutting edge, and just like on a kitchen knife or ax, you don't
> sharpen only one side of the blade! Most planes as purchased are best
> regarded as "kits". With some time and effort they can be turned
> into great tools for fashioning wood. Right out of the box though, most of
> them, even (especially?) the ones that claim that claim to be sharp and
> ready to use, are best used as hammers or doorstops until they can be
> tuned.

> Keeping the shape of a yak in mind, it occurs to me that there might be
> places where the length of a standard smoothing plane (even a short one)
> might be too long to get the "inside" curves faired properly.
> This would be where the scraper comes in. I don't have much personal use
> (although many do) for the hook bladed paint scraper. For me the blade is
> too soft and does not hold an edge. I prefer a hard cabinet scraper that I
> have burnished a clean hook onto. These hold an edge well and can be
> "bent" with thumb and finger pressure so that they fit almost
> any curved surface that you might need to deal with.

> Jessica, I agree with Rehd that you should not drop the plane. When it is
> tuned right, and with a bit of practise, it will remove "just the
> right ammount" of wood. I suggest that you get this practise by
> working on scrap wood, not the hull, until it all comes together!

> Good luck!

> coop

Sorry about the delay getting back to defend myself. :) I've had an exceptional number of Internal server errors tonight.

Oh sure, a guy makes one little mistake and whammmm !! :) Well, these are some big shoulders and I can take it. :) Actually, I suppose I did screw up a bit, but.........Everybody else did it too. I have seen countless posts in the past stating they used a block plane. So.......Hey, I never said I was always right. :) I think I mistook the usage, as I have seen them used on the tapering of strips. Do You forgive me?? Actually, I have never really seen the use of a plane on a rounded surface as being all together THERE !!Kind of a self defeating situation. ?? The plane is machined to be used on a flat surface, and it seems that as you move your hand/arm forward, you would have to, at the same time, rotate the plane, at an exact predetermined angle to get the exact same cut. I mean, you can't possibly be making contact on the front and back of the plane at the same time, on a rounded surface. O.K., so, I've had too much coffee today, but, I had to work my 10hrs.. :( Where's those M&M's.

My personal preference is and always has been the belt sander with 100 grit, then the orbital/now, ROS with 100 to 120 grit. That and I would take off the corners/edges with the cabinet scraper if it warranted it. That's with cabinet work however, as I've yet to........oh, you all know that.

I have used the hook bladed paint scrapper on table layups or hardwood cabinets, where I've had to edge-glue several pieces. It works good to knock the glue beads off, provided you don't let them dry completely. Then as was talked about in previous posts, it tends to chip out some of the grain. I have found that the french curved scrapper works best on inside curves, and it'll come in handy on the inside of these boats. Problem is, I've had a dickens of a time keeping that one sharp. Hard to work the curved surface with a steel.

O.K., I'm gonna shut-up now, as I'm sure I've blundered again somewhere. :)

Bye for Now,........Rehd