> Hi Jessica

> Don't know what kind of experience you have with the little block planes,
> but, those things can be tricky. A couple of minor problems could be the
> wood grain, if it's fairly curly or course, then the blade will hang and
> bounce. Another is you have to put a little pressure down on the plane.
> You said you sharpened it, and I'm not familiar with all planes, but, if
> the angle can be adjusted, it could be too steep an angle. ?? The
> suggestions for angling the plane as you move it forward are good ones. As
> that gives you a slicing effect and the blade is not likely to dig in. How
> far do you adjust the depth of cut? It's always best, if you're not
> familiar with the plane, to start off so thin that you don't think it's
> cutting at all. Then, adjust it down just a tad and give it another try.
> Keep going like that till you get the nice even, long curls. It's not easy
> to get the blade right the first few times. I started by laying two pieces
> of writing paper under the front and back of the plane and holding it
> firmly. Then let the blade slide down till it touches, ( on a piece of
> wood ) evenly across, and tighten it and try. If it's not cutting enough,
> then double the paper. Hopefully that will get you started. Don't want you
> to get discouraged with the plane. It's a good tool and works on taking
> lots of wood off. The scraper it good too, as is the sander, but, they are
> a bit slower. When you knock the edges off, then go to the lighter
> equipment. ( scraper, long-board/fairing-board, and the ROS ) Hope this
> helps.

> Rehd

Rehd

Good advice for setting the plane blade, by why the reference to a block plane? Those "little block planes" are designed for cutting across the grain, not with it. Great for shaving end grain, but not so good for "grainwise" cutting. The blade angle is wrong.

For cutting with the grain you need a standard plane. I'm thinking a Record/Stanley 3 1/2 or similar. The blade angle is set higher and in combination with the blade bevel and microbevel, you get a very high angle that can slice an almost invisibly thin shaving, leaving no tearout on all but the worst wood. Of course, no one uses "the worst wood" on a kayak, so that should not be a problem.

Remember that when you sharpen the plane blade you must sharpen both sides. Both the bevel side and the "flat" back of the blade must be sharp and free from nicks. The bevel must be "sharp" and the back must be flat and shiny. Why "sharpen" both sides? You are creating a cutting edge, and just like on a kitchen knife or ax, you don't sharpen only one side of the blade! Most planes as purchased are best regarded as "kits". With some time and effort they can be turned into great tools for fashioning wood. Right out of the box though, most of them, even (especially?) the ones that claim that claim to be sharp and ready to use, are best used as hammers or doorstops until they can be tuned.

Keeping the shape of a yak in mind, it occurs to me that there might be places where the length of a standard smoothing plane (even a short one) might be too long to get the "inside" curves faired properly. This would be where the scraper comes in. I don't have much personal use (although many do) for the hook bladed paint scraper. For me the blade is too soft and does not hold an edge. I prefer a hard cabinet scraper that I have burnished a clean hook onto. These hold an edge well and can be "bent" with thumb and finger pressure so that they fit almost any curved surface that you might need to deal with.

Jessica, I agree with Rehd that you should not drop the plane. When it is tuned right, and with a bit of practise, it will remove "just the right ammount" of wood. I suggest that you get this practise by working on scrap wood, not the hull, until it all comes together!

Good luck!

coop