like there are dry bags out there that have tubes attached to either blow up or suck out air to pack. (i'm almost sure of it - but whatever)

so say you had a drybag with blow tube attached. say it was a long one say 40 -45 in long when first closed(no big deal to roll up if don't want whole length) and say it had a circumference of about 28inches or so.

And say you may or may not have the Z-rest thermarest. BUt lets use it for fun.

SO you insert the zrest only as far as it takes to close the bag. the zrest is 20in long, the bag 45 or so. take the remaining 25in, and invert it back thru the ctr of the zrest folds(just invert past the clothing or whatever if no zrest).

then slide in the paddle and blow up. if pops or leaks, still have the thermarest foam or air and mass of cloting inside. a tie to keep from sliding off.

voila, why buy a paddle float when every dry bag you have is a paddle float, when the sleeping pad is the float, when the clothing can be a mass resist??

ON the prior post about the netting, neat things happen if you pull the ends. like it compresses and necks down. and is real real real cheap and lots of pcs to break before it fails. or maybe some tight other types of netting. when you push the paddle in and if pull w/ a tie anywhere on the netting it'll skin down and grab the paddle blade no matter what shape. the one-folded zrest'll fit a greenland paddle like it's made for it(but what selfrespecting skinner would use a foam float??)

i think the netting and single zrest fold(same as when you buy it)would work on
any width of paddle and will deform to go around the wider ones. I/ve got a couple of ww paddles that have quite square ends so would maybe have to come in at an angle or set up the zrest with double folds to get 10in wide.

I personally believe that every single dry bag should have an air tube(easy to design to protect) so then every single bag you have is a rescue device.

-mick