Pete -- On my Merganser I used thickened epoxy (but thin enough to use with a brush), brushed it in to the joint, and then rolled out the tape (that had been soaking in epoxy), and smoothed it out with the brush. On 3 of the 4 joints (2 in stern & 1 in bow), I had to pull the tape out and start over. It works best if the tape is just wet, but not dripping. Between the thickened epoxy and the fiberglass tape, everything went together fine. Good luck, Greg

PS: How about some pictures??

: We just got the hatches cut (going with the flush mount methods) and the deck
: and hull taped together on my SO's Merganser 16. It doesn't have sheer
: clamps and the deck and hull need to be joined with glass tape. Since the
: hull/deck joint is almost a 90 degree joint, does anybody have any
: recommendations to make this easier for me?

: I can see the normal stripper deck/hull joint being not too bad since the
: angle is alot more gentle between the two. But with this S&G the angle
: between the two is not nearly as pleasant to lay tape between.

: Current plan is to make small fillets between deck and hull on the inside and
: then brush unthinckened epoxy on surrounding area. Soak glass tape in
: epoxy and then roll the tape on using stick with brush where needed.
: Thankfully I can reach my hand entirely to the end of the cockpit and
: maybe 2 feet or so from the far ends of the kayak due to the location of
: hatches. This makes the long stick method a little more dealable since it
: only has to be 2-3 ft long and much more controlable that 8-10 ft long.

: Hope I don't get glued into the kayak while rolling tape. :)

: appreciate any words of wisdom from Pygmy or Shearwater yak builders.

: Thanks, Pete Czerpak albany, NY