I'm in the early stages of my building first kayak and of course am hoping to avoid the inevitable, but I know there will be some problems.

Would pre coating with unthickened epoxy minimize this problem? I would think this would solve the problem of too much resin soaking into the wood resulting in incomplete wetting out. Unless the problem was as has already been mentioned a problem with the 'glass itself, then your SOL.

Ken

: I've got some of those on my deck (I wish I had done the hull first). They
: mainly show up where the wood is dark. I figure that this is all part of
: the learning experience and understand that my first kayak won't be
: perfect so I'll have to live with it. I figured out that when I was
: working on the deck I wasn't letting the resin soak in an area long enough
: to wet it out completely before squeegeeing it off. I didn't see them on
: the first coat, but after fill coats I could see them but it was too late.

: On my hull, I took that learning experience and put it to good use. I poured
: on the resin in an area and spread it out. It probably sat 5 minutes
: before I squeegeed it off. The hull turned out excellent.

: However, the hull was from a different roll of cloth that I ordered later.

: I still think that it was probably my fault.

: This leads me to another subject.

: I put on the coaming vertical strips before fiberglassing the deck. What a
: mistake, I was fighting the coaming when I fiberglassed the outside of the
: deck, and then I was fighting the cheek plates when I fiberglassed the
: inside. From now on I'm going to fiberglass the deck first, inside and
: out, and then put on the coaming and cheek plates. I can still make the
: cheek plates part of the coaming if I want.