My 1/4" gap was where the bottom hull pannel met the side sheer pannel. I am hesitant to say the offsets are wrong. I was not as carefull as I could have been about double/triple checking my measurments before cutting wood.

I first stiched and epoxied the hull and then to get the deck to match up with the hull for final assembly I cut a number of spreader sticks. These sticks had slots cut into them so that as I layed them across the hull the slots would slip down onto the edge of the hull. I then made matching slots on top of the sticks and placed the pre-stiched deck on top of the spreader sticks. I could then mark the spreader stick locations on the deck and pull it off the hull and glass the deck with the spreader sticks fixing the width to correct size.

This method worked well except for one thing and Nick and other warn about this in their descriptions. The ends of the kayak are so inflexable that even if you're out of alignment by 1/8", that's it, they are going to stay that way, unless you're prepared to break the joints to do it. I think that if I build this boat again I would stitch the deck to the hull and then freeze the deck shape while it's stitched to the hull!

This got rather long winded I hope I didn't loose you in the verbiage!

Matthew