> Hi Tracy, Fiberglass coamings are quite strong and sometimes less labor
> intensive than wooden ones. I do all coamings on my kayaks with fiberglass
> and carbon cloth cut on bias (45') to conform to the compound curvature. I
> recommend at least 7 layers of 6oz cloth or more. The addition of graphite
> cloth will make the coaming sustantially stiffer and stronger. One issue
> you will have to deal with is how to hold the fiberglass tightly around
> the underside as well as the top of the cockpit. I have struggled with
> this problem and I only need to bend it 90+ degrees. Check out the link
> below for an alternative construction of this type. The mold is made of
> minicel foam (5/8" x 1.25") wrapped around the cockpit rim and
> covered tightly with 2" masking tape to make a smooth and fair mold
> surface. You can also make the mold from rubber foam insulation for
> plumbing pipes. They are sold in any larger hardware store. Some spray
> adhesive and kitchen cling wrap make for a good 'mold release'. Lay up the
> coaming, trim and bond it the next day. A bit of sanding and few filler
> coats of epoxy and you got a pro coaming. Vaclav