> I recently started building a new stitch and glue kayak that I designed
> myself. When I began assembling the panels I noted that the hull assumed a
> greater rocker (about 2.5 inches from middle to bow) than the intended 1
> inch. I was determined to achieve the designed rocker, so I did some
> additional planing on the innner edges of the hull pieces and applied some
> bracing and forced the full to assume the shape I wanted. This caused the
> inner edges of the hull panels to gap apart about .25 inch on either side
> of the middle. I rolled the boat and put duct tape over the seams so that
> resin and fillets wouldn't fall through. As a consequence of all this
> forcing I had a very difficult time making sure that the boat was not
> twisted. If I had to do this over again, I think I would have re-made the
> two hull panels or just allowed the hull to assume the greater than
> intended rocker. I wonder if others have had similar experiences and if
> so, how you addressed them?

Steve,

I had the opposite problem when making the plywood Walrus. I built it on a wood frame. When the plywood panels were put on the frame, because of the greater angle near the stems, they stuck out more there dispite my tapering them. This worked out well for me because it gave it stronger tracking, the skin version has an external keel strip that boosts the tracking.

My advise is to leave the extra rocker in, giving it greater maneurverability. This should make it perfom more like the much acclaimed British kayaks. If you want better tracking, add a retrackable or fixed skeg.

Just my two cents.

Mike