? Thanks, It's taking me forever, but my goal is to have it in the water by ? spring.

? I've done the same thing with 6? strips and it's worked well at ? times. I wrapped mine in duct tape so it wouldn't stick to the wood being ? glued. I know I didn't say what I meant to, but I'm worried that as I try ? to glue the strip in place one end might dip down into the crack too far ? and I won't have any way to pull it back up to being flush.

? Thanks, Dale

My level of craftsmanship is nowhere near yours so maybe my approach may be too rough for you. I have had hundreds (maybe) of these types of filler strips on surfyak (just work - not workmanship!) and my technique is to glue small scraps (1/8in x 1/4 in or whatever I have in the scrap bin) across the gap from below. Where access to the i/s is a problem I just take a 4 in length of masking tape, loop it around the 1 in long scrap, glue on ea end, dip it in the hole,twist 90 deg, pull on the tape ends and stick to the hull. Put one every 6 in or so. To get the filler strip to lay down, I just use wrapped webbing (sometimes webbing clamps), but usually the little fillers just jam in with out needing clamps. My hope is that when I come to sand the i/s of the hull all these little scraps will scoop chisel off fairly easily. And while this is ok for me, it may not be for you.

My technique for making filler strips is fairly easy. I place the blank next to the slot and lightly pencil mark across both every 3 inches. And then I take a set of metal dial or vernier calipers and fit to the hole at pencil line one. I then just lightly imprint the blank's first line w/ the jaws of the calipers(they're almost needle sharp). I then work along the hole back and forth to the blank quickly transferring the marks. (real quick, absolutely no measuring involved) I then just connect the dots with a pencil line and smooth plane (or sanding block if the strips are really small)just up to the line. Then fit and test, fit and test.

-mick(not kidding I'm testy!)