> I don't have a bandsaw and will have to rip strips on my tablesaw. At over
> $4.00 a boardfoot I want to minimize the wood I turn to dust. My only
> ripping blade takes a giant kerf - I suppose I could reset the teeth. My
> combination blade has 40 teeth; it rips oak slowly but will go through
> cedar fine. Obviously, it isn't meant to do all that ripping though. Does
> anyone have a recommendation for a fine-kerf rip blade?

Mike

Don't know what kind of saw or Hp you are using, but, there are a few things to consider when you go to buy. I'm assuming you're going to use the softer woods for strips, so, maybe the hp won't be a problem. If a 3/4 hp table saw or better, then you can go with the 10" blades and of course, the Forrest blades are a very good quality blades. Consider these things: are you ONLY going to use it for strips on your dozen or so kayaks you plan on ( or don't plan on ) building in the next few years. OR do you think you'll be using it to build some other projects? Since you seem to have the saw already, I would assume the later? Are you looking for a perfectly smooth surface from your table saw, or do you have a planer as well? I think you will find that you do not need a perfectly planed surface, as you will be planing/sanding or otherwise fairing the surface anyway.

If you are using steel blades, then you need to move into the 70's....uh, 80's....uh, 90's and get into carbide. It's the only way to go. You can buy the 7 1/2" circular saw blades in the thin kerf, with carbide and I don't remember what the tooth count is ( I use 40 tooth in my 1/8" kerf blades ), but, remember that the 7 1/2", 24 tooth blade is turning near the same speed ( tooth-wise ) as the 10", 40 tooth blade, so, the cut shouldn't be any rougher. The smaller blade is somewhat limited as to other projects, so, if cost is not a factor, then the 10" is probably the best bet. However, I have used the 40 and 48 tooth Sears brand blades, in carbide, for several years, and gotten very satisfactory use out of them. You DO have to consider the quality of the carbide, and how it is attached, so, watch out for the cheapy blades you see advertised. I've seen tips come off of them like a 22 round and that's scary. Always look at the teeth, even on a good quality blade, as even they have mondays, when building them. Look for good even sweatsoldering of the tips, and no globby solder or brasing.

So: Go with Carbide ( good quality )

If you're only doing strips and want to stay cheap, go with the 7 1/2' 24 + tooth blade.

If you plan on useing it further, on bigger projects, then, go with the 10' 40 tooth or better.

If you are really wanting to plane the surface, there are 72 tooth blades and I believe they come in thin-kerf, that will cut it like glass. But, the more teeth, the easier to heat up the cut and possibly burn the wood. $$$$$$$

On the other hand, what sawdust you make can be used to make your fillers and then the left over helps in the garden and on the lawn. :)

Oh yeh, the more Hp you are pushing on your saw the more teeth you can turn. But, again, on soft woods, that shouldn't be a concern. And also, if you are using carbide on soft woods, you can get away with a combination blade just as easily at the ripping type. I use nothing but combination blades and have no problems.

My favorite tip is: when your carbide blades get dull, don't sharpen them, wash them first. A little Easy-Off over cleaner goes a long way towards bringing the edge back to a carbide blade. They do get dull, but, they will get dirty and gobbed up behind the teeth many times before they actually need sharpening.

Hope all this helps. :)

Rehd