> Hi Rehd:

> Regarding the "bleeding" under the tape...it's all in the type
> of tape and how well you burnish (rub) the edge. Now this is assuming the
> surface is really smooth to begin with. Forget paper masking type tapes.
> In the sign biz we buy a very thin bright 1/4" tape for pulling long
> straight lines. It has some give in it so you can make fairly gentle bends
> in your lines. If you don't have a sign shop or supply close to you to get
> some line tape the next best thing is Scotch Brand or similar "magic
> tape"...this isn't the shiny stuff, more of a mat finish which when
> burnished down goes quite transparent. It's about 1/2 wide so it can't
> pull as tight a curve as the narrower tape but will still give a nice
> razor sharp edge with no bleed. If you are using a wide brush with an
> unsteady hand you can always place some wider "el-cheapo"
> masking tape on top of this so that there is still some of the
> "good" tape showing a bit at the edge.

> Regarding the tape pulling up paint...this is usually due to one of two
> things and sometimes both. The surface wasn't prepped or sanded properly
> and/or the top coat is not compatible with the coat underneath. Best
> example is painting a latex right over a gloss oil base paint. Sometimes
> adhesion problems happen when the coat underneath hasn't fully cured
> yet...it sometimes takes weeks even though it feels dry to the touch!

> Best wishes on pulling those fine lines...Doug

Doug, thanks for the tape tip, and I am figuring on glassing the outside of the canoe, and then paintin the design over the seams so they don't show. I will have to ask the board about types of paint over glass and about curing times for good adhesion....adheesio....adhetio....stickin' power. :)Thanks again!!

Rehd