> Will; My answer is also theory, the frame is still in the backyard covered
> with snow. Your hull is six panels vs four in mine, but approach should be
> similar. I plan to fabricate double-sided sand paper, (contact cement or
> glued to both sides of thin aluminum sheet)

Couldn't you just use a fine file, or put that sandpaper on both sides of one of your stir sticks, or a paint stiring stick?? Then use the zip ties and bring the panels close enough together to just get the file in there and work each area as you go along?? It wouldn't take much effort since you're only taking off a little of the corner of each ply-panel. But, I like the idea of using an accent piece in the gap. Problem is, the gap, as mentioned, varies all along the joint. Guess you'd have to be there, looking at it........

Rehd

and bevel the edges during a
> test fitting so that the sand paper is held on the bi-sector of the angle
> of the two ajoining panels, then when tight fit is achieved, stitch and
> move on, workint from center of hull toward both ends. In the four panel
> hull the angle varies from almost 90 deg at cockpit, to almost 180 deg at
> bow and stern. Another thought: Craft stores sell thin reeds, just pull it
> all together, and glue the reeds in the gap (nice accent stripe) sand and
> smooth over. Wow! I think I've just talked myself into contrasting pin
> stripes at the chines. Jay Babina once said of a butt joint: (paraphrased)
> "Don't hide it, celebrate it with an accent strip!". (sorry if I
> misquoted you, Jay) Mulling over other people's problems helps solve my
> own. Gonna cut my center butt-joint on an angle, will insert wide accent
> strips (like stripes on Coast Guard boats) and eliminate need for second
> joint for length at bow or stern) Thought: remove head before inserting
> accent strips in butt. TNX, Scotty