> I get the feeling it'd all fit a lot better if a slight bevel was imparted
> with some light filing. Then again this could change the actual beam
> dimensions slightly. I've wondered the same myself tho. Its strange they
> arent beveled via a CNC. This is total projection on my part at this point
> as my kayak is still floating out there in dreamland. Hope it helps tho.

> Pete

Will; My answer is also theory, the frame is still in the backyard covered with snow. Your hull is six panels vs four in mine, but approach should be similar. I plan to fabricate double-sided sand paper, (contact cement or glued to both sides of thin aluminum sheet) and bevel the edges during a test fitting so that the sand paper is held on the bi-sector of the angle of the two ajoining panels, then when tight fit is achieved, stitch and move on, workint from center of hull toward both ends. In the four panel hull the angle varies from almost 90 deg at cockpit, to almost 180 deg at bow and stern. Another thought: Craft stores sell thin reeds, just pull it all together, and glue the reeds in the gap (nice accent stripe) sand and smooth over. Wow! I think I've just talked myself into contrasting pin stripes at the chines. Jay Babina once said of a butt joint: (paraphrased) "Don't hide it, celebrate it with an accent strip!". (sorry if I misquoted you, Jay) Mulling over other people's problems helps solve my own. Gonna cut my center butt-joint on an angle, will insert wide accent strips (like stripes on Coast Guard boats) and eliminate need for second joint for length at bow or stern) Thought: remove head before inserting accent strips in butt. TNX, Scotty