I want to make sure I understand the problem. When you say the "hull went in and the deck went out" I'm interpeting this to mean there is now a difference in maximum width of one and one half inches between the hull and the deck. I'm also assuming that the difference from the designed dimensions is split roughly equally between the hull and the deck.

If the hull is too narrow at the sheer I'd think about cutting some temporary spacers out of, maybe, 3/4" stock. They should be exactly as wide as each of the station molds in the distorted area of the hull is at the sheer. Insert the appropriate spacer at each station location and gradually twist them into position. This should let you gauge how much force is being applied and to spread the necessary force over the entire area of the hull that is out of line. You can go slowly when you do this, spreading a little bit at each station until you get back to the designed beam.

If the deck is too wide, look to take up the difference gradually and over the length of the distorted area there too. I found that an effective way to squeeze the deck width was to put a sawhorse under the boat where I wanted to squeeze (it doesn't have to support the boat; it's just a stable horizontal beam under the boat) and clamp a pair of 2x2s to the horse so that they project vertically on either side of the boat. Then I pull the tops of the 2x2s together with a cam lock strap. I suppose that you could even use a racheting come-along, although I would be careful with the force you are applying.