What I've noticed is that a cedar 2x4 that's supported just in the middle will sag at the ends, just from it's own weight. If you flip it over, it will straighten out, then sag in the other direction. Cedar is often soaking wet when you buy it. I always let board air dry for a couple of weeks or more (supported at several points along its length) before laying out a paddle. If you draw centerlines on all four sides and do your layout based on them, you'll get a straight paddle out of a warped board.

Thanks, Brian. I did mark the center on all four sides, but it could be that the board warped. It didn't feel wet at all, but maybe it had more moisture than I could detect.

There's not only nothing wrong with putting it on thick, it's beneficial. The epoxy is supposed to be a sacrificial layer that will wear in use and be renewed periodically. Having it slightly proud of the surrounding wood helps to protect it.

Yeah, but I put it on too thick at once. It looked uneven. I've now sanded it way down (and stripped off some using CitriStrip) and will redo them soon.

You seem to be overly focused on aesthetics at a time when your main emphasis should be on the design and construction of good, functional paddles. That's not to say that you can't have both - you certainly can - but the prettiest paddle in the world is useless if it doesn't perform well on the water or it's not comfortable to use.

I agree with you on the latter, but I'm not focusing on aesthetics instead of function; I want the paddle to look good and last a reasonably long time, as well as be comfortable and effective. I admit I don't want a paddle that looks as if no care was put into its construction.

I recommend that you refocus on building your woodworking skills first (including sharpening, layout and working to your layout), as you need that as a foundation. Learn what you can from this first paddle, then move on to the next one. You're moving in the right general direction, you just need to adjust your course a bit.

Appreciate the thoughts.