: I ordered the Kajak Sport skeg with the lipless design. Based on
: input from this forum, I decided to rest the skeg box on the
: inside of the hull vs and thru-hull installation.
: Questions in order
: 1) The bonding to the plastic box was excellent. I first sanded
: with 120 grit on the sides of the skeg box to aid in bonding. I
: used the standard thicken epoxy (peanut butter viscosity) to
: make a fillet that I had a 1/2 inch radius in the joint of
: plastic and hull.
: 2) I used calibers to precisely measure the inside width of the
: plastic skeg box. I cut the opening to the skeg boxes' inside
: width.
: 3) The skeg fin is totally removable with a slot design. No need to
: remove the pin. I adjusted the skeg cable so that it doesn't
: travel far enough to reject out of the box.
: 4) The fin does not rattle at all in the box. This is due four
: vertical plastic ridges( 1/16inch wide) in the skeg box that
: insure a tight fit and proper alignment. In fact the only
: problem I have had is with the skeg fitting too tight in the
: box. I used a machine file to file down the plastic ridges to
: get the right glide resistance.
: 5) The skeg box came with a plastic skeg control box that you can
: order separately from Kajak Sports. A thick stainless cable
: comes directly mounted to skeg. Only three screws are required
: to remove the skeg fin from the box. It literally takes a minute
: to remove the skeg fin.

: Hopefully this helps..

Thanks Kevin

I always wondered how the Kajak Sport plastic adhered to epoxy. I considered trying one, but in the end chickened out and built my own.

http://www.etiennemuller.com/SkegProject.pdf

But now, after your positive experience, I am considering retrofitting the Kajak Sport ones to some of my older boats.

Et