: I'm up to the stage where I glass, I've had a couple of different reading sources that approach the process differently, Nick's does a sealer coat then glassing and others go right to glassing what's the difference. What do I get to thion out the MAS system that I got with Nick's kit? Also any tips on heating a workshop in Alaska? it's my garage here in Sitka, 28X14 with 11' cieling, it's warm enough to work in, but outside it's always 40's and dampuntil summer!
: I guess I'll have to get a thermometer to accurately measure the heat ands maybe a cieling fan to keep the heat from going upstairs?
************************************************
I borrowed this note from the System Three homepage.
The site has other info on using epoxy in cold and damp conditions. Rob

***********************************************
Heat Sources

Be very cautious about using any direct
fired salamander heater - either propane or
kerosene. Both will create a lot of water
vapor and carbon dioxide. A kerosene
heater will also spew lots of unburned
hydrocarbons. The oxygen level will drop
substantially as the heaters work creating a
lot of carbon monoxide.

All of these by-products will either react
with or contaminate the curing epoxy
surface inhibiting surface cure or secondary
bonding. If these are the only source of
heat then it is best to heat the room before
applying epoxy. Then, vent the room and
allow the heated objects to warm the room
back up again. Apply the epoxy and allow
it to cure to a tack-free state without using
the heaters. Then, if necessary, use the
heaters to finish the cure. Any epoxy
surface cured this way must be sanded
prior to the application of additional epoxy
to insure a good bond.

• System Three