: Hi, Y'all-Has anyone out there used a radial arm saw to rip strips?
: Greg
Here are three fixtures that will make ripping strips on a radial arm saw safer and more accurate.
The first drawing is an auxiliary splitter designed to assure the kerf remains open and neither the work piece or the strip wanders into the kerf. This will limit the risk of kick back and the blade from chewing into the sides of the cut as the work exits past the back of the blade. The splitter can be made of anything workable that is the proper thickness. Plastic, metal or composite, etc.

Next is a special work pusher designed to keep your hand away from the blade while at the same time it clears the work and the strip from the blade. The vertical block in front of the grip will come into contact with the blade guard and stop the pusher before your hand gets too near the blade. Pushers designed for other equipment don't take into account the location of the blade found on the radial arm saw. I’ve called for the strip pusher to be fastened to the body of the pusher by screws so it can be easily replaced if it becomes damaged in use. Note that this piece is 5/8” high so the fence featherboard won’t bind the pusher and it can be easily withdrawn after the completion of the cut. The strip pusher should be made of a stiff hardwood to limit flexing and contact with the blade.

In use the pusher will advance the work beyond the blade minimizing the chance of the featherboard’s pinching it against the blade as the last of the cut is made. With the work piece and the strip clear of the blade there is less risk of either binding in the blade as they are withdrawn from the table.

The last is a featherboard design that can be lagged down to the saw table or to a fence extension. I forgot to note that the fingers are 1/8" thick and spaced every 1/4 inch. The slot allows you to quickly adjust the featherboard as your work piece gets narrower.

Hope these help.