: should there be more or less blade on a storm paddle as compared to a normal
: greenland? my latest doesn't have a shoulder where the loom ends and the
: blade begins. for an easy sliding stroke. This cuts down on the blade area
: but due to the shorter length I thought this would be necessary. now that
: Ithink about that with the sliding stroke the leverage is the same as
: using a normal greenland. oh well does that mean blade size should remain
: about the same as my other paddles.

Tom,

When drawing on the paddle blank I recommend that you layout the blades about the same as Chuck Holst recommends for a standard cruising paddle. As you have discovered, the paddle is short but it is slid in the hands to such an extent that the leverage can easily be greater than for a cruising paddle. The sliding technique prevents the pushing blade from extending past the body to catch the wind. It is commonly used with a near vertical stroke with your torso tucked well forward to reduce the effects of strong headwinds.

You may wish to make the blades slightly thicker in cross section than you might choose for a cruising paddle. Optionally, you might also want to make it slightly wider, but not wider than you can comfortably grip. These paddles tend to be fairly stout and stiff, assuming that you wish to use them in demanding storm or surf conditions, or as a spare. Pick a solid piece of wood with good grain. I use cedar for cruising paddles but prefer Douglas Fir for a storm paddle.

Regarding paddle shoulders, I find a distinct shoulder to greatly aid the sliding stroke, not inhibit it. The shoulders provide a valuable reference point to help keep your hands from wandering.

Greg Stamer