Smith & Co. has 3 formulas. Cold weather, Fast and Original. Full cure is 1,2 and 7 days respectively at a constant 68 degrees.

I stated in an earlier post that the coat should be a little tacky for subsequent layups, be it epoxy, epoxy and glass or varnish. It was explained a little better with my second phone call. For subsequent layups you should be within the full cure window but MAKE SURE all the solvents have escaped. They said stick you nose in it to make sure. For poly finishes let completely cure well past full cure window.

In regards to the plastic look. It seems to me from our conversation that the penetrating epoxy doesn't add or substrate from the plastic look. If you want a lower luster just rub it out abit or use a lowerer scheen product. Just have to do some experiments.

One thing they said that I liked was that a fully cured ball of this stuff would bounce not shatter if you threw it to the floor.

Anyway, hope this helps. I think I might try it out on my CH17 for a comparison to my wifes CH16LT. I'll get back to everyone in 5 years when the regular epoxy starts checking and tell you if I see any difference. :)

John