Dave,

I would probably go with a shear clamp instead of taping the inside seam. I would also do like I did on my Pygmy Arctic Tern -- rather than tape the outside seam, overlap the outside deck cloth about 1" over the shear to bond to the hull. I would put an extra patch in the high-wear area of the lower hull, and maybe a strip of that monster 10" tape down the keel. Another idea might be to put a panel in between your legs, where there usually is a large slab of foam in most whitewater boats. The deck would then help share some of the impact energy from under the hull.

By the way, nice picture on your site!

Dean

> ok my idea is to make a squirt boat in stitch n glue style. I have a
> design made with the huls program that seems to work when I make a model
> of it. the basic shape will be flat bottom with a 2 chined side. the deck
> will be inverted in the middle. to really understand the design you
> shouold download the files off my homepage.

> ok my design is not the least of my worries. if I plan to take this boat
> on whitwater what kind of cloth should I lam on to it... I am planing on
> taping the seams on the inside of the hull and using a full sheet of
> fibreglass inside and outside the hull and the same for the deck. I will
> be using 10 oz. 4" tape "what I have sitting around" and 6
> oz s glass I will be using west system not polyester crap. I will end up
> haveing 2 peices of the boat to join... and I will do that with the 10 oz.
> tape. should I invest in some kevlar tape? or even carbon?

> on another note... in the last boat I built. I had trouble with wires
> tearing out. since this boat is going to be even harder to bend into
> place... what should I do to make the wires hold?

> anything u see wrong with or question about my little idea... tell me
> about. any good advice is very much appreciated.

> I will be keeping a journal of my building proscess online thanks DAVE