The more laminations you do the heaver it gets due to the epoxy or glue. It doesn't sound like much but it adds up. I use waterproof carpenter's glue which make them lighter than thickened epoxy. I coat mine with epoxy. but if you want to go dry, then as you know it's epoxy. I rifle through the wood with weight being the predominate factor. Two boards of the same wood can be 50% apart in weight. I use cedar and pine and they come in at under 3 lbs. Ross I know you know all this but I'm exemptlifying how important the wood weight is up front.

You may be too thick and wide which will only come with experience in using it. Better too wide in the beginning so you feel comfortable.

The thicker and more round the blade is the more likely it wil flutter. The flatter it is the less flutter. The thicker it is the greater lift in sculling ond rolling. The flatter it is the less lift you get and loose some of the greenland paddle advantages. Somewhere between is a compromise. Flutter will go away after you use it a while. In the beginning use a tiny bit of bottom edge forward in your stroke and it relieve the flutter. If it's too long it will also flutter. I make mine 7' 2". I personally have found no difference on the blade end shape and I have made about 40 or so. Many different. Real Greenland paddles are quite fat and a paddler who is comming from a regular paddle will experience flutter with them. The Greenlander's experience none. It's the paddling style, angle of attack etc. It's created by a vortex of water colliding behind the paddle. It will just magically go away as you get used to paddling with it. I don't know why but it always happens. My paddle doesn't flutter yet if I give it to a non Greenland style paddler and they will experience flutter.