> Hi! Wow. It all sounds so well thought out! I would like to know how to
> deal with the ends.In the Putz book there are stem timbers used to form
> the bow and stern, but if going the plywood route, how do you form the
> ends? Sorry if this seems to be an obtuse question... I was wondering how
> this might be done if using a 2x4 as a beam to hold the forms, given that
> the bow and stern are different heights above the floor (as described by
> Putz). Are the stem timbers needed? It looks like they would add some
> (unnecessary ??) weight to the plywood boat. Thanks for any answers. Kelly

Well thought out? Thanks, but I certainly can't take credit for this idea. Klepper has been using plywood panels to reinforce their wood frames for generations. They did all the heavy thinking. Mike would just be using adifferent species of wood, and be making the reinforcements larger -- to the point the covered the hull completely.

As long as I was using the wood frame throughout, I would certainly keep the interior bow and stem forms.

First, they are desirable for the structural strength, second they provide a pattern for making the panels, third they are useful for cecuring the ends of the stringers, and fourth they provide a nailing surface for the panels -- and I guess I use that term pretty loosely as I would use screws not nails. (But if I used the term `screwing surface' this bbs would start showing up on lists of xxx rated websites)

I do not begrudge a pound or two in the building of a boat, in fact, for decorative purposes I would consider a two piece stem, with an outer stem piece, perhaps of oak, serving as a bright finish accent to a painted hull.

In the Walrus design in Putz's book he leaves the actual curve of these pieces to the builder.

As for cutting the plywood to fit these shapes: It may need to flex a bit, but by tracing the lines of the wood frame you should pieces that are similarly shaped to those used in stitch and glue. If you have decided on a rather extreme shape for the stems, you may need to use a technique from strip building: Use narrower pieces, or `cheater' pieces to fill in the gaps. Be sure to adequately back these with additional pieces of plywood on the interior, just as you did with any butt seams.

While the Skeene plans that Putz based his design on were taken from a working boat that had satisfactory performance, also remember that the plans in Putz's book were redrawn by a naval designer, and so these designs and plans have a pretty good pedigree. I would not want to take out a piece of the frame and then hope that the resulting craft was still strong enough.

As for a 2x4 holding the beams when they are different distances from the floor -- I`m not sure I understand the question. Since Putz leaves the curve of the ends to the builder, all he specifies is a point when the pieces should all come together. he supposrts this point in the simplest fashion. He uses a single 2x4. The height of the 2x4 from the floor determines the amount of rise at each end of the boat. Remember that this boat is built uspide down. A shorter 2x4 means the ends of the boat will rise higher.

hope this helps.

Paul G. Jacobson