> I ve built and used the CLC Cape Charles kayak from plans and feel it is a
> pretty good boat. I feels quite stable initially and has good secondary
> stability due to its flair. In my opinion at stitch and glue technique is
> best suited to a hard chine design. If you wanted a rounded hull a
> stripper technique is better suited. I think aligning all those pannel for
> multi panels stitch and glue without forms would be somewhat difficult.
> Building the CLC style boat is fairly easy. If you buy the kit I believe
> the scarf joints are pre cut sand they are easily glued. I don't see how
> you can get a fair boat with butt joints if the boat is over 16 feet long.
> Cutting your own scarf joints in 1/8 in plywood is difficult but doable.
> The other difficult part on the pygmy design is attaching the inside seam
> of the hull and deck. I think the use of a sheer clamp greatly simplifies
> and strengthens this part and personally would not build a boat without
> this piece.

Pygmy's Arctic Tern is a hard chined boat. I had no problems with the butt joints on the Pygmy, my Arctic Tern is as fair as other stich and glue boats that I have seen. The inside seam was actually quite easy, Pygmy give detailed instructions on how to do it. A syringe on the end of a stick made the fillet easy then you just roll fiberglass tape out along the fillet, I put more epoxy on after that to make sure it was fully wetted out. The edges at the sheer seam get beveled on Pygmy kayaks so they have an area half again as wide to be glued, with that and fiberglass on both the inside and outside it is quite a strong joint.