Question 1/

The reference is to both of the gunwales being clamped together so you can mark 2 at once. Therefore the measurement is straight along the gunwales. This results in the fish form. The gunwales are left at 10 feet. The LOA will be about 9'9" plus whatever you add if you protrude the end blocks.

Question 2/

About 10' also for the keelson - the stringers are shorter. The reason for the 12 feet is that it is easier to curve the keelson if it is a little longer than the completed kayak at first. See page 42 photo.

Question 3/

The 3/4" spacer is so you can have 3/4" clearance when you lean back before you hit the beam. I would place this even further back - say 1 1/2" - but I am not building it so I am not sure. You should mock this up full size and move your body around to see if it is back far enough.

Question 4/

You can slightly see the last deck beam in the photo's of Smith's boat on pg 36,37, and on the left kayak frame pg 48.

Question 5/

The words top & bottom are mixed up in step 8 and I really believe he means 6" (or the m-f-ing mumbo jumbo about the thumb and the fist) clear between the keelson and the gunwale. ( the clear dimension )

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Okay, go for it! I strongly suggest you make the laminated masik. You will never ever regret the extra thigh room.

In closing, I reiterate that I think the article is proscription rather than prescription (?- sounds good). So climb into it all the time as you build it, and make changes here and there to suit you.

- mike