> The discussion of flush hatches has brought up a problem I had with making
> my last stitch and glue kayak (and I've been trying to mentally solve as I
> start my second).

> How do you make the hatch curve to match the deck?

> CLC suggests making small cross frames cut to match the deck curve -
> epoxied to the back of the hatch (clamp on individually). I was concerned
> about the hatch twisting so I made a jig - I cut slots in a length of wood
> (these would hold the cross frames vertical). I supported the hatch cover
> only along the edges and put the frames and the length of wood over top.
> Then I winched (by twisting loops of rope on either end) down on the
> length of wood - slowly bending the hatch too match the shape of the hatch
> cover. I was then able to glue it in place.

> Unfortunately, despite my best intentions the hatches still warped a
> little - forcing me to try and build up lips of silicone to fill edge
> gaps, plus by putting the weatherstripping on the deck rather than the
> hatch cover seemed to help (removing the lip for water to hit with a flush
> hatch has 2 benefits - 1- reduced splash, 2- waves tend to run over the
> hatch, and therefore don't force water past the seal).

> I plan on making new hatches for my boat as I build my wife a boat this
> year (I'll be trying flush hatches as well). Any better suggestions? Would
> I be better off to just clamp the cross frames individually? Or do I just
> live with some twist in the hatch and try to tighten the straps more?

> Mark

Mark, why not scrap the plywood hatch and make one of strips. The strips would follow the curve of the existing deck and would contrast nicely.

Larry C.