I said:
>> & glass the inside. You probably wouldn't have to glass the entire
>> inside, especially if you leave the stripping deckbeams in and epoxy the
>> deck to them. I'd certainly glass the inside in front of and behind the
>> cockpit, where you put a lot of stress on the deck doing re-entries.

And Pete said in response:
> If you do not glass the entire underside of the deck, you should upgrade
> the strip glue to epoxy. The strip technique works with carpenter's glue
> only because it is later encapsulated with glass and epoxy on both sides,
> totally isolating the glue from moisture. If the carpenter's glue is
> exposed to water in any way, e.g. punched with a rock or not glassed at
> all, it will soften, relax and ultimately (and quickly) cause bond
> failure. Some people would be embarrassed in a case like this.

And now I must say OOPS! I forgot about that contingency. Even a thin layer of 2 oz. glass will be better than the possibility of gettting that glue wet. I doubt that a rock would punch through the deck, but you could accidentally drop something on it and cause a crack on the underside which could be exposed to water.

> I built a G17, and it only took 2-1/2 days to strip the hull (I'm not a
> woodworker by trade, and this was my first stripper). If you're going to
> strip the deck anyway...

:) So you're saying I should just throw away my S&G boat? I'd at least like to make it look like the stripper I will build!

Shawn